A glance at their website would indicate otherwise. One page states that they support "ONLY the following models," and then there's a list of Dahlquist model numbers.

Hmmm, Whats the turnaround time on a set of speakers? It could just be a couple people doing good, fast, specialized work.

elroy

I think you're probably right insofar as there being only a few people at Regnar. When I had my DQ-10 woofers rebuilt by them about 3 or 4 years ago, I had the new drivers in my possession in less than 10 days from when I sent them in. On the other hand, having the same drivers refoamed by Simply Speakers in Florida took well over 8 weeks.

In retrospect, while the refoam was perfectly fine, there was clearly something else wrong with the woofers that a simple refoam wasn't going to fix. Had the guys at Simply Speakers suggested returning the drivers to them for a rebuild, I would have been less critical of them. As it was, they stood their ground, claiming they "stand behind their work," and just said that I was "driving the speakers (i.e. - the DQ-10's) beyond their capacity," Regnar found considerable fault with the drivers, and blamed it all on Simply Speakers, and called their work a "botched, rush job." Was that a fair assessment? I'll never really know, but I do know that the rebuild was very fine, although now, one woofer is blown, and I'll likely never know why.

And life marches on...

Greetings. My website is the source of the midbass upgrade page. I'm happy that you're satisfied with the substitution. I wanted a driver that was as much woofer as midrange. The driver blends well despite its obviously dramatically different characteristics. Of course, there was nothing in that size and sophistication in the 70s. I would caution that anyone else considering the change read the page before making the change, because a zoebel network is crucial to a smooth transition and to avoid overwhelming the midrange dome, and they also need to be padded down: http://www.bestspeakerparts.com/upgrade_th...t_dq10_midbass/ .

Regarding woofer replacements, I currently have vintage 1978 12” woofers installed. They’re very similar in construction to the Advents, that is paper cone which I coated and a foam surround which I’ve replaced. I ran their stats with Woofer Tester, and in that enclosure have a theoretical F3 of 30hz, and they do go deep and clean. They blend right in, and I’m sure that there must be new 12” woofers that would perform well too. However, Layne Audio http://layneaudio.hypermart.net/prod03.htm has new improved replacement woofers. I’ve also got 2 pairs of the originals that I’ve re-foamed as spares.

I considered replacing the tweeter and piezo with the Vifa D19TD-05 3/4" Poly Dome Tweeter, but frankly they perform so smoothly, that until there’s a failure I have no need to. I don’t encounter the high-end harshness that others have complained of. The DQ-10s are a wonder, no doubt.

Thorens TD-125LB/SME 3012 tonearm
Denon DL-110
Marantz carousel CD player
Hafler DH-110 preamp
Phase Liner 400/Adcom 5400

Mine didn't sound right the first time I hooked them up, so I will need to do a thorough troubleshooting. Can you determine which drivers are toast by disconnecting them one at a time, and playing it at low levels? Do the crossovers control the current so that the remaining, attached drivers get the right amount of juice?

Thanks for all of the DQ-10 discussion. It will come in handy when I get around to working on them.

In my experience, though I don't know if I'd necessarily recommend this, I found that disconnecting a given driver, one at a time, doesn't hurt anything else, and can sometimes readily identify whichever driver may be faulty. Mostly, by disconnecting a driver at a time, it becomes apparent how Jon Dahlquist designed the whole system in the first place: most of the drivers carry a limited range, and when disconnected, the overall sound of the system deteriorates noticeably.

When I was working on the midbass drivers, I noticed a decided "warmth" and "fullness" to the sound with the drivers operating, and a lack of both when those drivers were disconnected.

I haven't found it necessary to pad down the newly installed midbass driver, nor to remove the felt padding behind it, but I can't dispute the orignal poster's findings.

And I still love these babies!

Greetings. As we all know, there are many factors that influence performance, including room placement, furnishing, ancillary equipment, and taste. I removed the felt from the back of the new midwoofer because, after trying it with the felt installed, it sounded compressed. The new unit to me sounds more open without the felt. I also plan to open up the mounting board to allow more of the rear radiation to escape. I've padded it down with a resistor because in my configuration there was a little too much output, and it blended in better with the reduced output. This is of course all tuning to my unique environment. My living room is fully furnished with plenty of clutter to break up any standing waves, and opens out into a kitchen, about 2600 cuft. I like the neutrality of the Denon DL-110 cartridge, but it'll be interesting to hear the difference when I swap in my Audio Technica AT440ML and even the AT95E. That's what's cool about this hobby, you have control and get immediate results for you efforts. Onward and upward everyone.

Well, the problem is solved! And, it wasn't the upper bass driver (as I discovered after replacing those in each of my DQ-10's) nor the woofer either, which I should have guessed, as pushing on the cone didn't result in the customary rubbing one would otherwise have heard if the woofer were blown. The problem turned out to be a disconnected resistor in the crossover network!

I had removed the grilles from each of the DQ-10's yesterday to permanently attach the upper bass drivers - I had only crimped the connections onto the speaker's terminals, and had to solder them in place, as my DQ-10's predate the use of clip-on connectors. I simply touched one of the two resistors in the upper right corner of the crossover (which Regnar folks told me were critical in the operation of the woofer) and saw immediately that it had become disconnected. A light touch with a soldering iron, and a small application of solder, and, viola!, everything's fine!

Now I can once again simply listen to my speakers and enjoy the midbass upgrades. I can state now that the difference they make is very subtle, but worth the modest investment. And it's a pleasure once more not to have to cringe whenever certain bass passages used to generate such horrible distortion.

Glad to hear it Ed. Sometimes it is the simple things that elude us.

Jim

Does anyone have a solid recommendation for a replacement tweeter?

I just finished rebuilding my crossover and now the tweeter problem is even more apparent.

Thanks,

Nice! Enjoy your sound.

Are there any suggestions over at the yahoo dahlquist group?