Hey, Paul.
Figured in honor of my 51st bday (but who's counting?)
I'd poke around Craigslist. Two pair of DQ-10s,
one in Boulder for 280 bux, sans stands;
one in Highlands Ranch (by my GF's house) for 350, complete

Whattaya think?

Furthermore, how are you DOING?

dennis

nice to see you back poking around doc.

elroy

as long as neither have any functional issues, either pair would be a good buy. you would want some solid and fairly stout amplification for them.

Thanks, Scott.

Been trying to focus on my "life," so haven't been spending too much time plinking around on the net. Working, looking for work, and actually playing tennis two or three times a week.

What constitutes "fairly stout," Scott?
These look like they would be primo for biamping...

And Elroy...

and daughter Judy.

stout would be around 200 wpc of quality pedigree. thats getting into an optimum area afaik... cubdog runs a pair but i forget what he pushes them with and he could give you a better idea of what works well with these babies.

these are great candidates for bi-amping, but you'll have to modify them to do so.

I think cubdog and emaidel both have DQ-10's and are driving them with Adcom GFA 555's.

Jim

GFA 555II. 200 wpc. They still sound great! Go for a pair that are mirror imaged if possible.

cubdog

I bit the bullet on the pair in Boulder. (the other pair is right by my GF's house)
The guy is really cool, knows his stuff because he has worked in the industry,
and will hold them for me until I get up that way, and he gets back from
Belgium and the Netherlands.

I will probably run them straight, if mods are required for biamping,
because I don't see the point of an amateur trying to tweak greatness.

I will order all of the surrounds I need from re-edger and do four
or five smaller pair before I tackle these.

Report forthcoming, when the DQ-10s are in the house.

dennis

PS-
I'm really pleased with my Hafler transnova P-3000.
It's driving Klipsch right now, which are very different beasts,
but my system has never sounded better.
I am wondering what another hafler to go with true
stereo would be a good approach. the p3000 is rated
at 150 wpc into 8ohms.

outstanding! i think the Hafler should make a good accounting of itself. you'll know when you try it if you need something with more power.

I have a Hafler P-1500 and find it to be a very nice amplifier. Your P-3000 should do nicely. Two P-3000's cool! I believe they are bridgeable too.

Jim

Excellent!!!

I run mine off a 150wpc into 8 ohm amp (actually bench -*test*-('")ed at 170 and the other supposedly at 200wpc into 8 ohms).

Not as finicky as the Thiels, which are a real high-maintenance speaker, the DQs will play well with most amps. Kinda like the Vandies seem to do.

don't sweat the bi-amping, or the mod from piezo to EMIT tweet- the DQs are fine just as they are.

However, two things I would recommend...



1) Add a sub if you can afford it. The DQs are a smoove and wonderful speaker, but they don't go real low. For a real punch-me-in-the-gut Tympani experience, or a kick-in-the-crotch bassline from a Daft Punk tune, you'll need a subwoofer.

2) If they ain't mirrored, mirror them. Easy enough to do (though I shamefully will admit I haven't done mine yet).

And happy birfday!!!!!!!!

Oh, and amps used "in the day" range from the Crown 300 and Hafler 500, which some people say are a bit uncivilized, but it doesn't seem to matter with the DQs.

Also the excellent Adcom 555.

And Soundcraftsmen A500x series.

And heck, anything with some grunt behind it. 250wpc seems to be the magic number, but I'd say 100wpc or even a bit less will work well.

Tubes, i've been told 35wpc to 70wpc.



Congrats on a fine score, mister bandit!

I use the Adcom GFA-5800 @ 250 watts/channel at 8 ohms, and it does a wonderful job with the 10's. It's a high-current amp, as well as a very powerful one, and just what the 10's love. Several of the suggestions made are very worthwhile:

Definitely add a sub, as the 10's just gasp for air at much below 50 HZ.

The 10's must be on stands, and not on the little three legs that originally came shipped wtih them.

Check to see if the 10's you're buying have mylar caps in them. They're readily identified due to their bright yellow color. Older models with black, and/or purple caps which appear to have been put in place with Elmer's glue, and are considerably inferior performers, unless the owner already re-capped them.

As suggested, leave the drivers alone, and ignore the comments many have made that it's "mandatory" that you get rid of the Piezo tweeter. It only begins to work at 12,000HZ, and at that high a frequency, doesn't have the characteristic "spit" and brittle quality as when used in cheapo two-way systems, and crossed over at a much, much lower frequency. Jon Dahlquist knew what he was doing when he selected them.

In the event the woofers need repair, you can either refoam them, or, if you're interested in the absolute best performance from the 10's, send them in to Regnar in NY for a complete rebuild at $139.50 each. That's a very steep price, especially when compared to the $20 or so for a refoam kit, but I found it very worthwhile to do, as many other components of the woofer can degrade over time, and it's likely the speakers you're looking at are well over 25 years old.

Lastly, have fun!