looks like i wont be able to get the PD-3000 CDP worked on until next year,
so i boxed it up, and brought out my old standby, the DENON DCD-1500.
i'll tell you, "Dark" sound character or no, it is still a whole lot better
sounding than the PIONEER PD-M90X magazine changer that i've been
depending on since the loss of the PD-91!!
there is simply no substitute for a proper high-grade CDP with a Dual-Mono
configuration output stage, which both the PD-3000/91 and the DCD-1500
possess. depth and dimensionality in the soundstage that a multiplexed output player such as the PD-M90X simply can't match. the 1500
will take care of me very well until next year. in the mean,
i gave it a good tune-up. i re-lubed the entire transport assembly,
and placed foam rubber in various empty places in the chassis
to dampen mechanical resonance. i also placed some strategically
to dampen the POWER switches' action. this all yielded a high-quality
CDP that feels and sounds (mechanically, that is) rock-solid and
better than new:






(OLDER SHOT OF INTERNALS, BEFORE PLACEMENT OF FOAM RUBBER)











(this DCD-1500 has been upgraded by me. the isolator feet are taken from a
DENON DCD-910, the only player i am aware of with hollow shell isolator feet
that can be slipped over the 1500's molded stub-feet like i have done. they have
been screwed into dead-center of each of those stubs, with a single large fender washer placed inside of each isolator. further, i replaced the stock small pads on those shells with the large, thick pads from a SONY SLV-R5UC S-VHS VCR.
also, the power cord has been replaced by a thick- multi-shielded IEC, with the connection end snipped off, and hard-wired to the player. lastly, the rosewood panels
were an option for this player, provided by select dealers back in 1986.
i was lucky to come by the near-mint condition example i now own, with those panels
installed. as such, the overwhelming majority of DCD-1500 examples out there
are lacking side panels of any sort, with rubber plugs installed in the screw holes present on every DCD-1500 copy, that are designed to facilitate
mounting these optional panels.)




P.S. i am looking for the original owner's manual and/or the sales brochure
for this player. original shipping carton, too. if anyone can help me there,
please don't hesitate to PM...

Dual Burr Brown PCM54 DAC's are always good. The DCD-1500 does have the Sony KSS-121A transport, which is a little cheap but at least replacement lasers are plentiful and cheap. I had several DCD-1500's and a DCD-1500II at one time. Also had the less nice DCD-1100 which is not dual mono.

it is? the KSS-121A seems rather robustly built to me...
actually,i have a couple spare KSS-121A,
culled from the two banged-up DCD-1500s i had before this
near-pristine one fell into my lap. still it would be awful nice to have some
factory-fresh copies in reserve. i'll have to look into that.

pick-ups for the PD-91/3000 are available for $144 each. getting the PD-3000 fully operational, with at least two of those pick-ups in reserve is my primary goal...

Good idea with the cdp feet.
Mechanical upgrading in audio components are most of the time forgoten by audio aficionados, but we need to remember that any residual mechanical vibrational energy induced in the component needs to be absorbed. Everything we do inside or outside of a cdp to absorb any micro-motion of any electronic component are a must for a better image focus, transparency and bass quality.

ah, that's good to know.
actually, i was thinking of getting some of that road-noise-insulating rubber sheet
that they sell for lining the inside of a car for better car stereo sound,
and lining every interior surface that i can,
in both the DCD-1500, and the PD-3000 as well.
what do you think?

It's a good idea.
I'd been damping my units for a long time with great results. Also, i'm a little radical concerning damping. Not only i had damping cd transport and chassis' with 3M damping foil ( see pic below) but also i had bitumen dac chips, opamps and even caps....
CD transports, players and turntables are especially sensitive to these mods. The area of component support and damping is mostly a matter of improvisation. Metal (except lead) and granite should be avoided - these materials all “ring” to some extent even when damped by elastomers. Even lead is slightly improved sonically by application of adhesive damping material.
Keep us posted.

I picked up a rubberized spray paint I'm thinking of tryng out, and cork shelf liner is another good and cheap tweak.

The Dynamat brand and other brand of sound deadening sheets are good too- just watch the ventilation areas. These sheets absorb sound and transfer it into heat energy. The heat generated is really nominal, but nonetheless, no need to cover ventilation areas.