Full Version : Rebuilding Ohm model C's
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rickrob2- 04-18-2007
This is a project I did a while back. I picked up a pair of Ohm Model C's in pretty rough shape. The surrounds were rotted and the cones had partially popped out . One woofer cone had a detached spider and damaged and frayed tinsel wire.

The first step was repairing the woofers. I shimmed the cones and used a strand of fine wire and wrapped it around the frayed tinsel wire. Then I used a soldering iron a let a little solder flow onto the damaged area. You can see the repaired area on the end of the right wire. Once that was done, I used some epoxy glue in a small syringe to re-attach the spider back to the cone. That worked well as the syringe could get into the basket to apply the epoxy.




rickrob2- 04-18-2007
Step two was re-foaming the woofers. I used a white glue that came in a re-foam kit and glued the center edge first and let that sit overnight. Once that was dry I glued the outer edge. After the glue tacked up a bit, I removed the shims and made sure that nothing rubbed by carefully moving the cone up and down. Then I let that dry overnight as well. Glued on some new dustcaps and they were done.


rickrob2- 04-18-2007
Pics of the refoamed woofers.

rickrob2- 04-18-2007
I gave them a quick sound check after mounting back in the cabinets. They sounded pretty good.

Step Three was refinishing the cabinets. They had water damage on the top and I had to remove the the top piece of veneer from one of the cabinets. It looked like Ohm used contact cement, so I used a heat gun to loosen the cement and peeled off the damaged veneer. I used a putty knife and the heat gun to scrape off the contact cement. The cabinets were prepped by sanding with 100 grit paper.


rickrob2- 04-18-2007
I chose a quilted maple veneer which I found on E-Bay.

I used the Titebond II glue and iron method to attach the veneer. I rolled on a good coat of glue on the cabinets and the veneer with a three inch roller and let that dry until it was just clear. When gluing the veneer, I used push pins and held the veneer flat on a thick piece of cardboard so it didn't curl up. Once the glue turned clear, I positioned the veneer and used a iron set to a high cotton temperature. A block of wood 1 inch square by 6 inches long with smooth, rounded corners helps while you're adhering the veneer. Follow up with the block after the iron-- using it to push down on the veneer especially around the edges.


rickrob2- 04-18-2007
Veneer on the front of the cabinets

rickrob2- 04-18-2007
I trimmed the veneer using a router with a flush trim bit. It gives a nice squared off edge.

I sanded the veneer lightly with 120, then 150, then 220 grit paper and finished with 4 coats of Formby's semi gloss tung oil, using some 00 steel wool after each coat except for the last one. I painted the baffle boards black.

rickrob2- 04-18-2007
The grills were still in good shape-- a few frayed corners but this type of material is easy to fix. It's the open weave stuff, almost like burlap. A needle and thread to hold the frayed strands down.

The total cost for this project was about $55

Maple veneer - 30
Titebond II Glue - 7
Surrounds - 7
Black paint - 4
Roller- 2
Epoxy- 5

dingus- 04-19-2007
QUOTE (rickrob2 @ April 18, 2007 08:45 pm)
The total cost for this project was about $55

thats sweet. very nicely done all around.

Elroy- 04-19-2007
Sharp, real sharp. nice job.

elroy

clint e.- 04-19-2007
Great job. Well done.
They look beautiful.
Congrats, and enjoy.

hifi_nut- 04-20-2007
Awesome stuff, just awesome. Looks better than new to me.

Jorge

xxxrv- 04-24-2007
didn't know they made box speakers....great job.

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