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thedelihaus- 04-10-2007
Veneers- recommended thicknesses?

Need to order some veneer for a cosmetically challenged pair of Paradigm Titans and the tops of my friends' DCM Timewindows. Also, will re-do the wood side panels of my Denon POA 1500

What thickness should I go with?

I've seen 1/28", 1/16" and 1/8" available.

I'll be attempting the wood glue and iron method.

hakka26- 04-10-2007
I would usually use 1/28 unless there is a reason for anything thicker (possible abuse or wear?). Much easier to work with. I also use contact cement. If you use conventional wood glue be careful as it is water base and will soak into the veneer if used too liberally. Go with an aliphatic resin if using wood glue.

thedelihaus- 04-10-2007
Aliphatic Resin- could you give me more detail on this?

hakka26- 04-10-2007
"Yellow" glue. Such as Titebond. Still cleans up with water. But, it goes off at a lower temp and when dry is waterproof. Shorter working time too, 10-30 mins. Takes a stain somewhat, unlike white glue.

thedelihaus- 04-10-2007
Thanky!

Titebond- will that work using the iron method?

hakka26- 04-11-2007
Honestly don't know as I 've never used it in that manner.

OvenMaster- 04-12-2007
To veneer my Dual I used 1/32" pre-glued iron-on cherry veneer from Band-It. I was able to cut it with scissors as well as a plain hobby knife. Very easy to work with.

hakka26- 04-15-2007
The pre-glued veneer is great. Very nice to work with. I've used the peel-n-stick. If I want a really firm bond I put contact cement on the substrate.
We call the 1/8" stuff "door skins." biggrin.gif

rickrob2- 04-18-2007
QUOTE (thedelihaus @ April 10, 2007 10:57 pm)
Thanky!

Titebond- will that work using the iron method?

Titebond will work with the iron method. I use Titebond II. I've used 1/42 veneers, but I'd go with the 1/28 if it's available. The last 1/42 veneer I used was slippery elm and I had to tape the ends to prevent cracking.

When trimming the edges-- With the thicker veneers I use a router and a flush trim bit. On the thinner veneers I use a utility knife.

I use a 3 inch roller and put on a good coat of Titebond II on both surfaces and let dry until it's just turning clear. Then position and use the iron. I have a 1 inch square by 6 inch long wood block with rounded corners to work the veneer while it's still warm.

I've used the Band-it products too, and they work very well. I like the Red Oak.

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