Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The pictures do not disappoint, that gear looks nearly new. Just look at that mirror finish on the wood and the build quality... the covers on those look thrice as thick as the chassis of TOTL gear of decades past. Real shame about that damage, it had to be a heckuva drop to do that to such a thich face plate. Are the meter movements alright? The electronics? I wonder if a good body shop might not be a possible option for repair, touch up the aluminum with a welder, grind it down, and brush finish it to match, but I don't know all that much.

Another site I encountered and Babelfished claimed that only ~200 units of each were built with only a few ever making it out of Japan. The 500 number sounds more realistic, but I bet the true number is on the shy side of that.

Now all you need are the HSX-10000 and NSX-10000.

Beautiful gear. I especially like the darker tone of the faceplates.

- JP

I thought the Kenwood 700 series stuff was the nicest looking gear on the planet, but I'd say this Yammie gear very well may be the new king.

Congrats on the fine pieces of kit.

As for the damage to the amp, I'm wondering if a machine shop could plane it down flat? A good shop could maybe machine and bevel it just enough to be flat, and not noticeable.

There could be other creative ways to mask it too.

I am extremely happy for you.

The only downside is you don't live close, and I cannot come over to drool in person.

The setup is so sexy, it makes me wanna get nekkid.

Beautiful. and, congrats!

I didn't get to sleep until the wee hours - too damn excited with this gear!

As for the ding to the faceplate on the MX-10000, JP's suggestion of an auto body shop to do the repair may be the way to go. What it will take is an "Artiste" to square up that corner, and touch up the finish, and it should be barely noticeable. First though I'm going to have my brother-in-law who is a Jeweler take a look at it.

Are you going to use paint to touch it up, or what exactly?

I've done lots of auto body- I worked on restoring some cars. Not an expert, but I learned enough to do some crafty shade-tree work.

If the faceplate is the natural color of the metal, you'd need to grind it down to smooth out that edge.

I'd not have an auto body shop do that.

If it's paint over the aluminum, there's a nice metal/Bondo mix that could be applied to the faceplate to fill in the nick, then sanded flat to appear flush.

If you do go the auto body route, be very, very clear on what you expect to get back from them. Be specific, and be sure they understand the value of the piece, and how it is not replaceable. Demand a pro with lots of experience. Don't let a newbie do it.

If you go the route of a machinist, I'm sure the face could be milled down, and machinists have great tolerance controls. You'd just need to explain to them as well that the sanding grain would need to match, and that the rest of the face could not be damaged.

Anyhow, good luck with it.

I'd offer to do the bondo work for you, but I'd be nervous with this being such a rare piece. I'd hate to make a mistake on it.

Just checked the pics- the writing, the type, if you need it to be replaced, it could be duplicated by many a graphic artist- just get some good photos of it.

Maybe a leafing of white gold could be applied, for a custom touch, or a wood panel to match the sides even.

I'm terribly sorry anything has to be done, but I'm sure that any work done will turn out to be excellent and the amp once again will look cherry.

Paul's suggestions are good. You might also want to see if Mark W will be in your area anytime soon and see what he thinks. He used to do a lot of great, fine detail metal working with custom knives. Kelly (Superfly) may also be able to help and possibly put you in touch with his CNC guy. That amp face plate isn't too complex, so maybe it'd be easier just to have a whole new faceplate made and the lettering added via Paul's suggestion -- silk-screening isn't too complex and there are likely people in the Portland area who could do a good job of it.

- JP

This is likely a dead end, but maybe it'd be worthwhile checking to see if Yamaha might have any spare faceplates in a backroom somewhere via their parts distributors. With as few owners as there are, there may not have been sufficient demand to empty the parts bins of their supply.

- JP

maybe a single T, but my dual T-Amp setup will run rings around it.

seriously, i am in awe. i know what i'm going to be doing in a few weeks ......

I think the repair needs to be minimalist - a bit of fine hand work to true up the corner - doesn't have to be perfect, just not obviously out of square - followed by touch up paint that matches the anodized finish. It will take a good eye and an artists touch to do it right.

Now how about some nudies?

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First the CX...

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now the CDX ...

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